The stew is very hot. Steam rises from tender pieces of lamb, potatoes, carrots and Swedish (rutabagas) while I dip a slice of crusty bread, generously spread with salted Welsh butter, into the bowl. Filled with nutritious vegetables and succulent lamb, cawl Cymreig (a traditional slow-cooked stew that translates to “Welsh soup”) is hearty, comforting and delicious.
Said to originate in 14th century Wales, this unofficial national dish was traditionally simmered in a pot over an open fire and served on special occasions. Nowadays, you can find the stew on Welsh menus all year round, but it’s a staple on St. David’s Day (celebrated every March 1), when Celtic nations celebrate the life of the greatest character in the era of the 6th century Welsh saints: David.
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Known as the “spiritual commander-in-chief” of Wales, David is said to have been born in 500 AD and was the grandson of Ceredig ap Cunedda, the king of the western Welsh territory of Ceredigion. David grew up to become a noted preacher, founding many churches and monastic colonies. The saint, who led an austere life and avoided meat and beer, is said to have survived on leeks and water (perhaps this is why the leek became a national symbol of Wales).
In the Middle Ages, pilgrims went to St. David’s Cathedral in Haverfordwest, Wales, to pray to the saint and seek blessings. In 1123, Pope Callixtus II declared in Rome that two pilgrimages to the cathedral were equivalent to one trip to Rome. The spectacular purple-stoned cathedral is today the religious center of Wales.
On March 1 (the day David died), the patron saint is honored with decorations, banners, singing, dancing, and many meals. Every party, whether in a fancy restaurant, a small pub or a family home, includes stew.
“The cawl is always served on St David’s Day, although we also eat it at other times. It is a favorite during the winter months, eaten with pieces of homemade bread and Welsh cheese ” said TV chef and food consultant Nerys Howell, who is the author of the book Welsh Food by Season.
“The hearty dish is made from meat [typically lamb or beef] and all the vegetables available. Recipes are often passed down within the family and vary from town to town, season to season, throughout Wales,” she said.
Welsh cuisine is characterized by being the food of the country’s farmers, miners, peasants and others. “Welsh food is the food of ordinary people in Wales. We have our own unique culture with recipes based on good quality, healthy, seasonal produce and regional varieties,” Howell said.