But they stick to sourdough for the same reason everyone else does: There’s nothing like this flavor.
“There’s a depth and base to a bread product that you can only get with proper fermentation,” says Wiser, noting that the Little Grand’s crusts are made from sourdough or a sourdough-based blend. flour made from a leaven which allows more flexibility. . “The complexity that sourdough brings, combined with a bright tomato sauce, really good cheese, all those things…I keep coming back to the word ‘umami.’ »
On a recent visit to Little Grand, I was struck by the boldness of the crust. It retained its punchy flavor and crisp form under the weight of the thick garlic puree that topped the tomato tart, a pairing that could easily have turned into a soggy mess.
Sourdough is about as complicated as it gets in these parts, where the overall approach, according to Wiser, tends to be to “keep it simple.” The co-owners strive to emphasize quality over showmanship, a philosophy borrowed from a business Batista opened years ago: All Souls Bar in Shaw, a neighborhood spot beloved for its small rotating selection of reliable cocktails.
The team initially envisioned Little Grand as a spiritual sequel to All Souls, figuring they were just opening “another bar that has pizza,” Wiser says. In a way, this remains true. The drinks are comparable, although the newer location takes it to the next level by serving classic cocktails in fancier stemware. Each establishment is a stone’s throw from a bustling neighborhood – All Souls is a block from U Street – but maintains a cozy atmosphere with warm lighting and limited seating.
But as the team began to think about what to serve at Little Grand, the idea hit them: “Oh, no, we opened a restaurant.”
Food therefore became a priority. They sought advice from Bobby Hellen, a New York-based pizza whisperer known for his Sicilian pies, to find what Wiser calls their “pizza identity.” While some menus offerings stay put – like tomato pie or a jazzed-up pepperoni – other combinations come and go depending on the time of year. The basic white pizza, which balances soft cheeses like ricotta and mozzarella with the much tangier Grana Padano and pecorino, can be transformed into a “special white” featuring seasonal produce. The roasted mushroom pizza, once a white special, was so popular that it became a staple. In late March, the vegetable rotation included kale.
The owners source their ingredients as locally as possible. The grass-fed beef in the meatballs, for example, is raised on a Virginia pasture. Farm-fresh Pennsylvania ricotta is featured in one of the other non-pizza items on the menu: a small salad of cheese, thinly sliced radishes and apple slivers, topped with a vinaigrette blend spicy, fresh mint and flakes. sea salt. You might want that brightness to counteract the rich meatballs or all those slices of pizza — although it’s worth noting, as Wiser does, that most restaurant fare is “lighter that it seems “.
Which means you can stop by a friend’s house, order a pizza or two, and pick up a few small plates while you’re there. The menu pays homage to Wiser’s snacking preferences with homemade “martini pickles,” a small bowl of vegetables reminiscent of her habit of snacking on any pickled thing she can find — whether it’s celery , olives or even kimchi – while sipping a martini at a restaurant. House.
Pizzas are served as rounds or 12-inch squares, although the latter option was briefly suspended so the team could find a way to streamline the labor-intensive process by baking squares at the same temperature as the rounds. Wiser recommends arriving earlier if you’re craving a square, as the current solution is to offer less each night so you can ensure everyone is in tip-top shape.
“The sourdough world is getting nerdier and nerdier,” she says. “I’m still learning about it all the time.”
808 Seventh Street NE, 202-758-0783. littlegranddc.com.
Hours: 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Thursday. 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Tuesday.
Nearest metro: Union Station, 0.7 mile walk from restaurant.
Prices: From $5 to $33 for all menu items.
