Monday, April 29, 2024

How to cook with barley, farro, wheat berries and more whole grains

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Flour is the most common way to cook with grains. But there are so many types of grains and cooking techniques to explore, especially in savory dishes that will bring fiber, protein, and whole grains to the table.

Cereals are of course at home in cereal bowls, salads and soups. Once you start playing with them, you will realize how tasty and easy it is to enjoy wheat berries, farro, barley, sorghum and more.

Here is an introduction to what you need to know.

Purchase. If you want to experiment with different types, go to a store that sells cereal in bulk so you can only buy the amount you need.

If you’re particularly interested in whole grains – primarily what I’m going to talk about – read the labels. A few grains are processed in such a way that they are not considered whole grains. An example is barley. Like other grains, barley has an inedible husk. If you want whole barley, be sure to buy hulled (the hull falls off naturally) or hulled (the hull is removed but the bran is intact). The pearl barley, which will appear smoother, has been stripped of the husk in such a way that some of the bran can be removed, so it is no longer whole. Likewise, you can buy pearled (without bran), semi-pearl (some bran), and whole farro.

Two wheat-based products are additionally processed but remain whole. Freekeh is made from green wheat kernels that are roasted or smoked and then sometimes cracked. For bulgur, the wheat grains are parboiled, dried and sometimes crushed.

Storage. For longer storage, your best bet is to refrigerate or freeze cereal grains, for 3 to 12 months, says Roxana Jullapat in “Mother Grains.” This keeps them from going rancid and protects them from pantry pests. If you decide to keep them in the pantry, use sealed, airtight containers.

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Plain cooked cereal can be refrigerated in its cooking liquid for up to a week, writes Emma Zimmerman in “The Miller’s Daughter.”

Preparation. “Like any agricultural product, grains need to be cleaned,” says Robin Asbell in “The New Whole Grains Cookbook.” Place them in a bowl, cover them with 3 inches of water, then massage them in to allow the chaff and broken kernels to float to the top. Pour them with the water and drain the grains in a fine sieve.

Like beans, grains can benefit from soaking overnight, although it’s not mandatory, says Abra Berens in “Grist.” Soaking larger, harder grains can cut cooking time in half and ensure even cooking. Faster-cooking or crushed options, such as freekeh and pearl barley, do not need to be soaked. (Bulgur is often prepared by soaking it in boiled water.)

Kitchen. If you buy packaged cereal, the label should include cooking instructions (keep them if you repackage). One method is absorption, in which you add a given ratio of water to grains and cook in a pan until the water is completely absorbed and the grains are tender. Adding grains to a cold liquid before boiling will yield a softer result, while adding them to a boiling liquid will make them firmer, Asbell says. You can also add the grains and liquid to a baking dish and slide them into the oven. You can boil grains like pasta in larger amounts of water, although some nutrients will be flushed out. Pressure cooking, like in an Instant Pot, allows for simple cooking. Use a natural release to let the beans finish steaming while the pot depressurizes, Asbell says.

To cool and dry the grains before storing, frying or using them in a cold salad, spread them out on a clean kitchen towel. This is a key step before freezing, Berens says, because putting hot grains in a container in the freezer can promote bacterial growth.

Using. Cooked grains are natural in hot or cold salads, such as in Wheat berry and lentil salad with carrots, parsley and harissa, shown above. “My sure-fire combo for grain salads is: a cooked whole grain, pickled vegetables or fruit, cheese, nuts, something green, and a little salt and pepper,” Zimmerman says. Berens’ rough formula for farro salads starts with 2 cups of cooked cereal, 1/2 cup of dressing, and as many raw and cooked vegetables as you’d like. Cool hot grains in dressing for added flavor.

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Berens encourages home cooks to use wheat berries and other grains the same way you might use other starches. Try barley in a fried rice style dish. Berens likes “risotto-based” cereal, which is cooked like rice, gradually adding liquid while stirring to release the starches. See Barley risotto with asparagus, cider and goat cheesebelow.

For a fun topping, Berens suggests frying the pan-fried grains in a “healthy amount” of neutral oil until golden brown and crispy.

Of course, grains can be cooked in stews and soups, including Farro, Kale and Peanut Butter Soup.

The options. This list is not exhaustive, but here are descriptions of common grains, with estimated cooking times on Berens’ stove. Often they are interchangeable in recipes as long as they are cooked for the correct amount of time.

  • Barley“Barley has a rich flavor with a mild sweetness, pairing well with mushrooms, root vegetables, warm spices and autumn flavors like apples,” says the Whole Grains Council. 35 minutes for the pearl, 45 minutes for the hulled.
  • Bulgur: Unlike the others listed here, bulgur is pre-cooked and you just rehydrate it. It has the same nutty and earthy flavors as other wheat products. Soak 10-20 minutes in boiled water.
  • farro“Farro resembles plumper wild brown rice and tastes like roasted nuts with light caramelized notes,” Zimmerman says. 15 minutes for the pearl, 25 minutes for the half-pearl, 50 minutes for the whole.
  • Freeke“Freekeh, like bulgur, is not a grain but rather a coarse flour made from cracked wheat,” according to Jullapat. Berens notes that it has a more vegetal flavor than other wheat products due to the green berries. 20 cracked minutes, 40 whole minutes.
  • Sorghum: Jullapat says it has “a consistency similar to steel-cut oats and a slightly sweet, nutty flavor,” adding that soaking is highly recommended. 40 minutes.
  • Wheat grain: This is a fairly broad category, as you will find that species and varietals will differ in shape, size and flavor, although they all fall “somewhere on the ubiquitous ‘nutty’ spectrum. “says Berens. 45 to 60 minutes.

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