“I’d had cider before – both types of groundhogs,” Hall joked, pointing to the sweeter ciders prevalent in the United States at the time. “That first night I had one and I was like, ‘Wow, that’s super crispy and dry, like a good pilsner. The next one was funky like a lambic. Then someone else said to me, “Mine is barrel aged!” Who knew you could have all these flavors in cider? »
A few months after acquiring Goose Island in 2011, Hall, 56, founded Virtue Cider in Fennville, Michigan, with the intention of following the European cider tradition of using only apples, with no additional fruit. But, like many craft beer brewers in the United States, he soon realized that such a narrow definition of a drink excluded rather than invited new consumers. “Once we made our first cherry cider, it absolutely blew up.”
Virtue’s portfolio now includes many fruity, beer-inspired ciders, such as Framboise and Kriek, which mimic the characteristics of their beer counterparts but remain decidedly cider at their heart. By offering familiar touchpoints for flavor and finish, cider houses like Virtue aim to appeal to curious consumers who are unfamiliar with cider but are ready to sample a new beverage segment.
Breweries are beginning to understand the potential of cider. Cider has increased its retail share more than 10 times over the past decade, according to Nielsen, and there are commercial cider houses in all 50 states as well as the District today, with about 1,000 cider houses in America. North. Comparatively, there are more than 9,000 operating breweries in the United States – by far the most in American history – but in 2021, overall beer volume in the United States grew by only 1%.
This stagnant growth and stiff competition in beer is prompting more breweries to diversify their production by launching dedicated cider brands, including Cidergeist from Rhinegeist Brewery in Cincinnati and organic canned ciders from Coronado Brewing Company in San Diego. Other breweries are buying existing cider brands to supplement their portfolios, such as Seismic Brewing Company’s acquisition of Golden State Cider this year.
Stem Ciders in Lafayette, Colorado, purchased the Western Pilsner brand from Howdy Beer in April for more practical reasons, according to Stem chief commercial officer Dave Duffy. As distribution points tighten, sales teams shrink, and supply chain disruptions continue, consolidation makes sense to bring more options to more consumers at lower costs.
“There’s upward pressure on prices right now, and that’s putting downward pressure on volume,” Duffy said. “I have to make sure I’m as efficient and effective as possible, from production to logistics to retail.” His logic: the more things they can offer for sale, the better their chances of making a sale.
Hard cider is considered wine for taxes, labeling, and regulation, which means beer companies tend to need separate licenses and facilities to produce cider. This can be both cost and space prohibitive. However, some are finding ways around these obstacles.
Benny Boy Brewing is one of them. Los Angeles’ first urban brewery and cider house, Benny Boy operates from two buildings – one for cider making, one for brewing – sandwiching a common courtyard, allowing patrons to stroll through either the other (or both) to try everything, including natural wine.
“There are still a lot of people who don’t drink beer,” said co-founder Ben Farber. “We wanted to have a place where there was something for everyone.”
When Caitlin Braam was looking to open a bar for Yonder Cider in August 2020, she knew a dedicated cider space wouldn’t stand on its own. She decided to contact Meghann Quinn, co-owner of Bale Breaker Brewing Company, to join forces in a technically separate but operationally common space. The two companies now share a bar in Seattle, which allows them to focus on their respective drinks while offering more selection to customers.
“Breweries see value in having a diverse portfolio,” Braam said. “The goal and the hope is to create a tasting space and a tasting experience where people can come and really try anything they want.”
Cider is inherently gluten-free, unlike beer, whose malted grains – usually barley, wheat or rye – naturally contain gluten. Often it has a lower alcohol content than wine, averaging 4-6% alcohol by volume versus 11-12%, and the short list of basic ingredients (apples and yeast) seems transparent and comparatively more “natural” than some alcoholic alternatives. like hard soda water.
Plus, according to Hall, “there’s no greener drink,” noting the minimal intervention, water, and energy the apple trees need compared to what’s used during the brewing process. In short, consumers with dietary restrictions or a preference for sustainability need only turn to cider for a new realm of possibilities.
According to Hall, the more cross-segment exposure drinkers there are, the more opportunities the cider will have to educate, convert, and grow.
“Cider has a great future. The hardest part is getting over that initial bump and getting enough people to try it,” he said with a laugh. “But we are patient.”
Ciders to try for craft beer lovers
Anxo Cider — Sidra Verde
Washington, DC – 6.9% ABV
Funky, tangy, dry and quiet, Sidra Verde offers a very sour gateway to the world of wild cider wild ale. Fermented with native yeast in wooden barrels, it marries mid-Atlantic GoldRush apples and terroir with the theatrical cider of Asturias, Spain: poured from the air and consumed in a single sip. (Distributed in limited release in 19 states plus DC and shipped direct to consumers in 42 states.)
Golden State Cider — Mellow Green
Sonoma County, CA – 6.5% ABV
It’s not an Indian pale ale, promises Golden State general manager Chris Lacey, but it uses 100% freshly pressed Columbus hops and West Coast apples to ensure skeptical hop heads pass from beer to cider will enjoy recognizable flavors with a fresh perspective. (Distributed throughout California; parts of Oregon, Washington and Nevada; with direct-to-consumer shipping in 40 states; some restrictions apply.)
Cincinnati – 5.0% ABV
Infused with lemongrass and ginger, it hits that sweet spot of low ABV drinkability and a clean finish for beer lovers, dryness and flavor complexity for cider lovers, and low tannins as well. as an innovative food pairing potential for wine drinkers. Chris Shields, Education Director of Rhinegeist, recommends pairing it with coconut desserts, fish tacos with mango salsa, or spicy Thai food. (Distributed year-round in Ohio, Kentucky, Massachusetts, Indiana, Pennsylvania, Tennessee, and Wisconsin.)
Vertu Cider — Kriek 2021
Fennville, Michigan – 6.9% ABV
Historically used in many Belgian Kriek beer recipes, Schaerbeek cherries are renowned for their wild, tart flavor ideal for blending and ageing. Kriek uses locally grown and harvested Schaerbeeks to emulate the Old World brewing tradition with contemporary cider-making techniques, resulting in a complex, bright cider that’s as enjoyable with waffles as it is with charcuterie. (Distributed in 50 states with direct-to-consumer shipping in 41 states plus DC)
Stem Ciders – Chile Guava
Lafayette, Colorado – 5.2% ABV
This cider offers big, bold flavor without an exorbitant ABV, making it an accessible alternative for drinkers who appreciate an explosive taste experience. Juicy guava complements the apple crunch, culminating in a spicy, off-dry finish that’s sure to please the open-minded. (Distributed year-round in 20 states and shipped direct to consumers in 38 states.)
Angry Orchard – Unfiltered
Walden, NY – 6% ABV
Cider’s answer to fuzzy IPAs. What it lacks in bitterness and hop flavor, it makes up for with full body, a rich mouthfeel and a mostly dry finish that will feel fresh but somehow familiar. (Distributed in all 50 states and Canada, plus domestic direct-to-consumer shipping.)
Grafted cider — Farm Flor
Newburgh, NY – 6.9% ABV
For many beer drinkers, the term “farmhouse” conjures up sensible memories of rustic, easy-drinking craft beers such as saisons or gardes beer. This dry table cider mimics the characteristics of farmhouse ales, but with a tart finish and a light touch of wood for a contemporary take on the beloved beer tradition. (Distributed in 16 states and DC, plus direct-to-consumer shipping to 42 states, plus parts of Europe and Asia.)
