According to Dr Polly Russell, food historian and curator at the British Museum, the British love of roasts dates back to the 15th century and King Henry VII’s “Beefeaters”, the Yeoman Warders, the ceremonial guards of the Tower of London, so named because of the weekly rations of beef they were given to eat. But the idea of a “Sunday” roast punctuating the week for the population really took hold in the 19th century, Russell explained. “At the time when we were industrialized and Sunday became a day of rest, people would go to church, put whatever food they could get in the oven to cook and be ready to eat when they got home .” She identifies this era in which “roast beef, in particular, became a symbol of Britishness”.
“For me, the Sunday roast has always been a special occasion,” said Michael Yates, executive chef of NoMad Restaurant. “It’s when you do your best to come together with family and friends and really share a meal around the table.” Although his execution of the roast is rather refined, Yates ensures that the meal does not stray too far from tradition, with the communal and festive aspect best expressed by his signature lamb offering (for two): a succulent shoulder, slow roasted. for 12 hours, then grated and scented with lavender.
Yates is just one of the London chefs modernizing the Sunday roast. Once a staple of local pubs or humble carvers, the Sunday roast can now be found in many chef-driven restaurants, where the offerings go beyond the usual. Michelin-starred restaurant The Harwood Arms in Fulham, for example, offers slow-cooked, bacon-wrapped venison shoulder glazed with honey and mustard. Sustainability-minded Sussex in Soho touts partridge with liver parfait, bread sauce and thyme jus.
But the “new” face of the Sunday roast doesn’t always have to be so exclusive. The Great Chase, an alcohol-free fine dining restaurant in Islington, prides itself on being inclusive, with halal meats and a vegan Wellington. The roast can even appear in the most unlikely places, like at Camden’s Black Heart, a music venue known for showcasing metal bands. Their plant-based menu is a must-try for vegans, who clamor for the roasted “tofu pork” brisket marinated in maple mustard, or the signature “mocken” brisket, made with tofu and jackfruit. All are served with eggless Yorkies.