According to Parks Canada, hikers often say that meeting and connecting with First Nations guardians was the most profound and memorable moments of their trip. But with only six Guardians present at any time along the 75km trail, engagement opportunities are not guaranteed. And the demanding backcountry experience can leave trail users, especially beginners, with tunnel vision.
Although Parks Canada’s West Coast Trail Map includes information on First Nations and Indigenous place names, “most hikers ask the rangers they encounter about trail logistics, such as distance to the campsite. They’re not necessarily focused on learning about Indigenous culture and history,” shared Leslie Cook Jr, a second-generation Guardian entering his 17th season on the trails.
Following in his father’s footsteps, Leslie Jr works on Ditidhat traditional territory between kilometers 25 and 50, supporting and maintaining access to the trail. As a tutor supervisor and long-time resident, Leslie Jr has a wealth of knowledge and a desire to share Indigenous history and culture.
He is often found in his Keeper’s Hut, near kilometer 30, where he resides when on duty. Here, he enjoys “walking and chatting” with trail users around a half-finished cedar canoe. “It came from the Cheewaht River, where the tall cedars were perfect for carving canoes, and floated ashore during a big storm more than 20 years ago,” he said. “A canoe close to shore, it would have been 8 feet long, perfect for day fishing near the kelp beds.”
Leslie Jr can also pass around a laminated photo of an old warrior barracks – “500 men, plus warrior families”. The barracks once stood near Leslie Jr’s Keepers’ cabin, and it was from here that the Ditidaht defended the coastline.