From Potsdam, I crossed the Glienicke Bridge, where the United States and the Soviet Union once exchanged spies, and cycled a pleasant road through the woods to the Wannsee, where I boarded a public ferry. The weather had turned sunny and warm, and sailboats were strewn across the water. After disembarking I started on what is probably the nicest stretch of the trail. On the one hand, there were finally hills. Although tiring my heavy bike, they added interest and variety. I came across a beautiful lake nestled in the forest, with a small beach populated by a few dozen people. I couldn’t resist taking a bath. The cold, clear water was almost unbelievably refreshing. While I was drying myself off I ate my picnic – and this being Germany, I had a pretty decent cup of coffee at the stand by the beach. Then, with a pang of heart for the locals lounging on the beach, I packed my bags; the rest of the Mauerweg called.