The front bar at Jake’s Tavern in Shaw sports four televisions. Does the Baton Rouge-born chef ever feel like he’s in competition with the lineup?
Not at all, says Ben Jumonville, 31 years old. Where he’s from, “food is as much a part of the culture as football.” The New Orleans Saints and gumbo “go hand in hand,” says the alumnus of popular Washington restaurants like Dabney and Le Diplomate.
Jumonville was brought on board in early fall by co-owners Todd and Kristen Ciuba, and ahead of Jake’s fifth birthday on Feb. 1, he expanded the menu to include a handful of memories from home. For starters, this tangy rib-eye gumbo, whose broth is thick from cooking the chicken feet and dark from cooking the roux low and slow in the oven. Blue catfish, fresh from North Carolina, is blackened before going into my favorite sandwich here. A recent snow day brought us to Jake’s, which seats about 90 if you count the back patio on a nice day, for a bowl full of creamy red beans, andouille, shredded chicken and the support of the trinity of peppers and onions. and celery. $15 Pleasure is powerful, comfort like a comforter and a hug.
Todd, who also co-owns Black Whiskey on 14th Street NW and enjoys fishing around Annapolis, loves the synergy between the Chesapeake and Louisiana at his bar. Singles, take note: A few regulars met here, got engaged, and brought their wedding parties to Jake’s. Who needs Tinder or Bumble when there’s a friendly bar like this to bring people (and the occasional service dog) together?
“We’re not perfect,” Todd tells his team. “We want to improve ourselves.” Customers notify the kitchen if day-old smoked whitefish salad is too salty. On the next visit, the spread, topped with a touch of dehydrated Korean chili peppers, is good until the last hit of a slice of cucumber or chips. Jumonville is the kind of chef who knows when to buy something (Wisconsin cheese curds) and when to make it from scratch (chicken fillet). Meanwhile, the bartenders are the type to introduce themselves to strangers when they’re feeling uncomfortable and take the time to make sure the newbies feel as comfortable as the regulars seem to be. (Thanks Chris!)
Besides, there really is a Jake behind the brand. He is the relaxed son of the owners, who plays hockey and is now 18 years old. When the couple was brainstorming names for what they hoped would be a “chill” neighborhood bar, Todd says, Kristen responded, “chill out – kind of like Jake.” Todd says his son didn’t like the idea of a bar named after him when he was a kid, but now that he’s a freshman at Florida Atlantic University, he thinks it’s cool.
1606 7th Street NW. 202-719-2669. jakestaverndc.com. Bowls, sandwiches and baskets, $12 to $23.
