With its long history and even longer memory, Ireland is a nation that offers much to historians. From its ancient history and Celtic identity to the Viking invasions and its many wars of independence, Ireland is a history book in itself. It is also one of the earliest Christian nations, and as such has a long tradition of saints and monastery building. At Inis Oirr in the Aran Islands, west of the Irish mainland, there is a sunken church unique in every way. Known as the sunken church of Inis Oirr, it offers a fascinating insight into the area’s past, as well as the spread of Christianity in Ireland.
Aerial landscape of Insheer Island, the smallest of the Aran Islands and home to the sunken church. ( Evaldas /Adobe Stock)
Saint Cavan and the sunken church of Inis Oirr
Inis Oírr is the Irish name for Inisheer, the smallest and easternmost of the three Aran Islands, a group of three islands located off the west coast of Ireland in the Atlantic Ocean. They are known for their wild beauty, unique culture and strong Irish heritage.
The three islands that make up the Aran Islands are Inishmore ( Inis Mor ), Inishmaan ( Inis Meain ), and Inis Oírr ( Inisheur). With an area of around three square kilometers, Inisheer is the smallest, but it does not lack beauty. Known for its charming scenery, including sandy beaches, ancient ruins and unique flora, popular attractions in Inisheer include the infamous Sunken Church, O’Brien Castle and the Plassey Shipwreck.
Relief sculpture of a crucifixion scene behind the altar of the sunken church. Credit: Ioannis Syrigos
The sunken church is better known by the name of its patron saint, Cavan ( Caomhan). But it is also called Teampall Cheannanais in Irish. Saint Caomhán (Cavan or Kevin) of Inisheer is the patron saint of the island and “by far the most famous of all the saints of the Aran Islands”.
Although little is known about him, some suggest that he was a brother of Saint Kevin of Glendalough, first abbot of Glendalough in County Wicklow. Tradition has it that Saint Cavan visited and inhabited the island, establishing a monastic community there. According to some sources, he was a revered figure, leading an austere life devoted to God and solitude.
It is commonly accepted by scholars that Saint Cavan died around 865 AD, as some historical sources suggest. He was buried in a modest stone tomb on the eastern end of the island. Later, on this same site, a church was built, around the 10th century AD, known as the Church of Saint Caomháin.
Saint Cavan’s Church, known locally as the Sunken Church, on Inisheer. (PhotoPrince / CC BY-SA 4.0 )
How the sunken church got its name
Due to its proximity to the sandy banks of Inisheer, the church was subjected to strong gusts of wind and accumulations of sand. Over the centuries, as the pages of history turned and the church was gradually abandoned and lost in time, the drifts of sand continued to bury it. At one point it completely disappeared from view, buried by sand.
It has now been completely excavated of the sand and is maintained each year by the islanders themselves to keep it free of sand. However, this is why it is a few meters below ground level and appears sunken. Hence its name: the hollow church and its unique appearance.
Today, the excavated building is one of the best preserved 10th century churches in Ireland, although it is in a ruinous state. It clearly displays the classical architectural style that was popular at the time, as well as Irish building traditions.
Inside the sunken church of Saint Cavan. Credit: Ioannis Syrigos
Sadly, the entire building has disappeared over time: most of what remains visible today is the choir, the space around the altar. Nevertheless, detailed archaeological excavations have revealed that about a hundred years after the church was built, it was enlarged, making way for a wider nave, the central part of the building.
The now-sunken church clearly confirms that religious life was vibrant in Inisheer as early as the 11th century, a time when Christianity was firmly rooted even in the most remote corners of Ireland.
Although in ruins, the remains of Saint Cavan Church are a place where peace reigns. Visiting the site, one can feel the echoes of history captured in the weathered stones. It’s a perfect place for quiet contemplation and introspection.
Next to the sunken church is the resting place of Saint Cavan. It is a small tomb, also partially underground, with a modern roof on top. Visitors can descend a small staircase and pay homage to the saint, enjoying the calm and contemplative atmosphere that reigns inside.
Inside the sunken church of Saint Cavan. Credit: Ioannis Syrigos
The charms of Inisheer
Despite being the smallest of the Aran Islands, Inisheer has a lot to offer visitors. Besides its picturesque landscapes, it has a rich history which is clearly reflected in its character and appearance. Visitors can admire the remains of the 14th-century O’Brien Castle near the top of the island, the holy well of Saint Fiachra near Cill Gobnait, the island’s lighthouse, or the 1500 BC megalithic mound called Cnoc Raithni. A small island steeped in history, like Ireland itself!
Top image: The sunken church known as St Cavan’s Church on the island of Inisheer. Source: David Matthew Lyons /Adobe Stock
By Aleksa Vučković
