You can’t go wrong at this place, where veteran chef Pedro Matamoros offers two ways to eat under one roof: Frank’s Burger Place, featuring a burger named after the chef’s father-in-law, and District Bistro, a source higher but still relaxed. for some American comfort foods. “Think of a simple roast chicken,” says Matamoros. His previous kitchen stints include Barrel and Crow in Bethesda, Tabard Inn in Washington and the late 8470 Kitchen Bar in Silver Spring, whose popular lavender chicken recipe is being revived on the bistro’s menu, introduced last fall.
The dining room, which includes a back bar, is awash in the owner’s favorite color: the menu, booths and ceiling are all blue. A small living room off the entry is a cozy nook with armchairs and wallpaper that lets you pretend to look out into the woods.
There’s probably nothing on the menu that a chowhound needs to Google. Cubes of tuna tartare top an avocado base, a familiar appetizer served with flecks of bright yuzu and sriracha sauces. Ginger duck confit tops crispy spring rolls, set atop their sweet chili dipping sauce. Salads are made for two and pastas include house-made fettuccine with lamb bolognese, lit with harissa, and agnolotti fat with braised short ribs, sparkling with olives and topped with beef jus vinous. Sautéed fluke and buttered mashed potatoes go well together, as do hamburger and fries – the same sandwich sold at Frank’s and made from a palooza of meat: chuck and brisket, plus the ends of New York strip steak, filet and rib-eye. . Everything is shaped into a pancake, gains a crust from the grill and is wrapped in a pleasantly sweet brioche bun. A mountain of potatoes with the skin on and fried twice shows the same care as the burger.
Despite the fact that Matamoros says he “told my sons not to go into the restaurant business,” one runs Frank’s and the other the bistro, whose name highlights the Wheaton business district, not Washington . The chef, originally from Nicaragua, has been cooking for three decades and will turn 55 in April. Yet, he says, “I’m happy in the kitchen.”
When he is happy, the guests are too.
11230 Grandview Avenue, Wheaton. 240-833-8635. districtbistroheaton.com. Open for indoor dining, delivery and takeout. Entrees $25 to $36.
