Time for tacos. Suckling Pig is a fabulous meat bar, crispy in some parts and chewy in others, flavored with orange, oregano and thyme and topped with chopped onions and mashed avocado dots. The beautiful wedge is perched on a squeezed and baked purple corn tortilla on the comal, or griddle, that diners see as they enter the restaurant. An even brighter taco finds charcoal-marked broccoli stalks – imagine small trees upside down, sprinkled with shaved cashews – rising from a black mole stroke on a blue corn tortilla. How to eat the construction? Carefully. Still, I love the combination of soft corn, smoked broccoli, and a mole lit by a garden of chili peppers, peanuts, raisins for sweetness, and vegetable ash for color.
