Kick off Rosh Hashanah on a sweet note with tishpishti, an orange semolina cake

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Overview

When it comes to Rosh Hashanah desserts, apple cake or honey cake may seem more familiar to Ashkenazi Jews (Eastern and Central European) celebrating the Jewish New Year. But the Jewish diaspora is as large as its global recipe box, which features other sweet delicacies, such as this slim and dignified option: a syrup-soaked semolina cake called tishpishti.

Tishpishti is originally from Turkey and is popular in Sephardic, Middle Eastern, and North African Jewish communities. The name is an absurd word originating from Turkish and roughly translating to “quickly”.

According to Gil Marks’ Encyclopedia of Jewish Food, tishpishti is “a traditional Rosh Hashanah dessert, served to start the New Year on a sweet note.” In other words, the symbolism of tishpishti is similar to apple or honey cake, except that the popular semolina cake is liberally drenched in fragrant syrup. The combination of semolina and syrup gives tishpishti the delicious roundness of cornbread and the thick, spoonful texture of polenta.

The ingredient list for syrupy semolina cakes varies greatly depending on where they are baked. The name also changes accordingly and is regionally referred to as basbousa, revani, safra, hareesa or namoura. Some cakes contain only finely ground semolina, while others also contain all-purpose flour, nut flour, or dried coconut. Some households bake an all-nut flour version of the cake, especially around Passover when the wheat-based semolina is verboten.

Tishpishti is also served on other festive occasions throughout the year. Some families mark the end of the Yom Kippur fast with a piece of cake. Others serve it on Purim or as a treat on Shabbat.

My favorite tishpishti recipes are those fortified with butter and yogurt, which impart richness and subtle flavor to offset the unabashed sweetness of the syrup. But the versions of the cake served in observant Jewish homes are usually lightened with beaten egg whites or moistened with orange juice and oil to keep the dough dairy-free (and therefore suitable for dessert after a meal. kosher containing meat).

The top of the cake is often decorated with whole or chopped pistachios or almonds, or a pinch of dried coconut. And syrup, made from sugar, honey or a mixture of both, is rarely left plain. Instead, it’s abundantly flavored with rose water, orange blossom water, cinnamon, or citrus zest.

“The syrup used in my family is flavored with lemon or orange zest and orange juice,” said Rabbi Ute Steyer, who grew up in Athens and now lives in Stockholm. “It really adds to the flavor, but my family is a bit obsessive about adding lemon and orange to everything!”

When it comes to semolina cakes, pretty much anything goes. But that does not mean that there are no rules, the most important of which is to pour room temperature syrup slowly and steadily over the hot cake, letting it absorb without flooding the top. (Pouring coffee lovers will be familiar with the light touch required by a hand drizzled with syrup.) Another rule of thumb is to let the cake cool completely before slicing – again, for maximum syrup absorption.

When the cake is ready to serve, it can be cut into small squares or diamonds and served with more syrup for drizzling and a glass of fresh mint tea on the side. A dusting of icing sugar or a puffy cloud of whipped cream browns the lily, while a spoonful of yogurt turns leftovers (which can be kept for days with syrup) into an enviable breakfast.

“There’s a serious machloket (dispute) over the best parts, the midsections or the corners with a little bit of crust,” Steyer said. “I still can’t make up my mind, so I’m taking two pieces just to make sure!”

Tishpishti (citrus semolina cake)

Those who prefer a dairy-free cake can substitute for high-quality vegan butter and unsweetened coconut yogurt.

Storage room: Syrup can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Or buy: Orange blossom water can be found in Middle Eastern markets or online.


Ingredients

FOR THE SYRUP

1 cup (240 milliliters) water

1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar

1/4 cup (60 milliliters) fresh orange juice

1 teaspoon of orange blossom water (optional)

FOR THE CAKE

1 cup (240 milliliters) plain whole yogurt (can replace unsweetened coconut yogurt)

3/4 cup (150 grams) granulated sugar

1/2 cup (1 stick / 115 grams) unsalted butter, melted and slightly cooled (can replace vegan butter)

1/3 cup (80 milliliters) fresh orange juice

1 tablespoon finely grated orange zest

2 cups (360 grams) fine semolina

1/3 cup (15 grams) finely grated unsweetened dried coconut

2 teaspoons of yeast

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Confectionery sugar, for serving

Finely chopped roasted pistachios, for serving


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Step 1

Prepare the syrup: In a small saucepan, combine the water and sugar and heat over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce heat to medium and simmer, stirring occasionally, until syrup thickens slightly, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the orange juice and orange blossom water, if using. Let cool completely.

2nd step

Make the cake: Place a baking rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Cut two long rectangles of parchment paper and line a 9-inch round cake pan with them, crisscrossing in the middle, making sure there is generous overhang on all 4 sides.

In a large bowl, whisk together yogurt, sugar, butter, orange juice and zest until blended.

Step 3

In a medium bowl, whisk together the semolina, coconut, baking powder and salt. Add the dry ingredients to the moisture and gently fold until they are completely incorporated. Transfer the dough to the baking pan lined with parchment paper, smooth the top with an offset spatula and let the dough rest for about 5 minutes to allow the semolina to absorb some of the liquid.

Step 4

Place the cake pan in the oven and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until set and lightly browned around the edges (a toothpick inserted in the center should come out clean).

Step 5

Transfer the cake to a wire rack and let cool for a few minutes. Using a fork or skewer, poke holes in the surface of the cake. While the cake is still hot, slowly drizzle 1 cup (240 milliliters) of the syrup evenly over the top. Let stand for about 5 minutes, then drizzle with another 1/2 cup (120 milliliters) of syrup. (Reserve the remaining syrup for serving.)

Let the cake cool to room temperature, then sear the parchment paper overhang and gently lift the cake from the pan and transfer it to a serving platter.

Recipe by Leah Koenig, culinary writer and cookbook author.

Tested by Olga Massov; send questions to [email protected].

Scale and get a printable version of the recipe here.

Did you make this recipe? Take a picture and tag us on Instagram with #eatvoraciously.

Browse our recipe finder for over 9,100 post-tested recipes on washingtonpost.com/recipes.

More recipes for Rosh Hashanah from Voraciously:

Pot roast braised in wine

Fall salad with farro, apple and roasted persimmon

Tahini Salted Caramel Pie

Kugel from Savta

Nutrition

Calories: 468; Total fat: 14 g; Saturated fat: 9 g; Cholesterol: 31 mg; Sodium: 166 mg; Carbohydrates: 80 g; Dietary fiber: 3 g; Sugars: 46 g; Protein: 6 g.



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