Last September, I visited the northern homeland of Greta Thunberg. When I arrived in her hometown of Stockholm, I just missed the famous young Swedish climate activist who went on a solar powered yacht to attend the United Nations Climate Summit in New York. But I have come to understand why Sweden is a world leader in the sustainable tourism movement and why Gothenburg, its second largest city, has been named European Capital of Smart Tourism 2020 by the European Commission.
Located on the picturesque west coast of Sweden, the former industrial port city has not always been as environmentally conscious. That changed in the mid-1980s, when Swedish Environment Minister Birgitta Dahl visited Gothenburg and declared the rotting and dirty blue-collar city to be “a hellish courtyard”. Correctly reprimanded, political and commercial leaders pledged to transform the gritty 17th-century city into a beacon of urban sustainability.
This effort, in part the result of a broad community commitment, seems to have worked.
Today Gothenberg is a glass and cast iron greenhouse with towering palm trees and exotic plants. These are blue and white electric trams that parade through the streets, in front of residents who ride bikes. These include roasted coffee, craft beer, some of the best seafood in the world and a dozen varieties of vegan “milk”. These are canals built in the Netherlands, lush urban parks and cobbled streets, where you can walk from your hotel to shopping, restaurants and nightlife. It is a ferry that takes you across the Götaälv River to a free sauna and a public swimming pool, where the water is completely cleaned without chlorine and the changing rooms are made from recycled bottles.
Greta is a really important voice in our time
It’s no wonder that, for three consecutive years, Gothenburg has been declared the world’s most sustainable destination by the Global Destination Sustainability Index. Even its once grungy harbor has been cleaned up. In 2011, the port received the Maritime Transport Award for its regional environmental contribution and was the first in the world to supply shore-based electricity to ships at dock, thereby reducing carbon emissions.
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Due to Thunburg’s global presence in the climate crisis that started with its 2018 demonstration in front of the Swedish Parliament, I questioned the influence of Thunburg in Gothenburg. “Greta is a really important voice in our time,” said Katarina Thorstensson, manager of sustainability at the local tourism board, Goteborg 039;Co. “Sure, it affects us all in different ways. I think the travel industry in Gothenburg is well aware of the importance of sustainability, as we have been working on these issues for a long time. But Greta clarified the urgency of leveling up in all industries. In particular, said Thorstensson, it “gives courage to young people to raise their voices.”
It was evident even during my visit, when Thunberg tweeted “Goteborg” with the hashtags #ClimateStrike and #FridaysForFuture to encourage the hundreds of activists who demonstrated at the end of September.
During my visit, I discovered the ethics of sustainability in Gothenburg from the moment my train from Helsingborg slid towards the central station. Thanks to its ideal location, the main transport center of the city was a short walk from my hotel, the Clarion Hotel Post, a large and old post office with elements of its original architecture. The local tourist office boasts that over 90% of its hotels are eco-certified, which means they must meet the environmental and sustainability standards set by regional organizations, and here the tiny bottles of shampoo, plastic cutlery and the straws were long gone, a sign of the road to the hotel to give up plastic.
Nearby, the Eggers Hotel, Sweden’s third oldest hotel, has also been renovated in the style of Greta, sourcing electricity from its own wind turbine on the coast and strictly regulating fossil fuels, chemicals and waste.
On the roof of my hotel, I discovered an organic vegetable garden planted by urban farmers as part of an emerging “hyperlocal” movement. Visitors to the city can take part in city safaris to learn more about local food production while visiting several city farms and urban gardens, such as Kajodlingen, a commercial vegetable farm atop a pier in the industrial area of Frihamnen.
One of the advantages of Gothenburg is its privacy and accessibility. To explore the compact city, I had many ecological options. I could rent a bike from Styr 039;Stall, a bike sharing system with 72 stations. I could try an electric scooter (and be congratulated via the app for choosing this “carbon neutral” route). I could hop on one of the city’s 260 electric trams, many of which are named after famous citizens of Gothenburg, or enjoy the views from a silent, zero-emission electric bus. Currently, 65% of Gothenburg’s public transport is buzzing with renewable energy, with the aim of making it fully electric by 2030.
The other choice I had was to walk, which I did with pleasure.
Gothenburg would not be really green, of course, without its proximity to nature. Surrounded by thick forests of lime and beech trees, the city offers 274 m² of green space per inhabitant. The botanical garden and Slottsskogen, the most beautiful parks in the city, are wonderful to explore. In the latter, you will find quiet meadows and wooded paths, the only free zoo in Sweden and the Goteburg Natural History Museum, which, oddly enough, claims to have the world’s only full-size taxidermy blue whale.
More recently, the city has created Gotaleden, a new and extensive hiking trail that begins in Gothenburg and connects to various stations along the 71 km route. The end point is the small town of Alingsas, often described as “the capital of Sweden fika(A beloved Swedish ritual, where people take a break during the day to meet up with friends over coffee and a cake) because there are the most coffees per capita in the country.
Along the way, you can stop in the town of Floda to visit the popular Garveriet restaurant, which offers a local organic menu and a “zero waste” policy. The restaurant is also part of an innovative program called ‘Meet the locals’, where visitors can experience the Swedish way of life and little-known sites and activities in the area through the residents.
True to the city’s green image, the people of Gothenburg have eagerly embraced sustainable fashion. You can find a large part of it in the charming district of Haga. Thrive, for example, only sells natural, organic or recycled clothing, free from toxins and unfair labor practices. Nudie Jeans, the international brand that launched its successful line of sustainable jeans from Gothenburg, is also located here. Flea markets abound and they are a great way to mingle with the locals. The largest, Megaloppis, is located at the end of May in the trendy Majorna district.
As with its fashion and hotels, ecological restaurants are also easy to find. There are many vegetarian restaurants and a law requires that all meat sold in the municipality be from organic farming. (KRAV, a regional organization, certifies restaurants for animal health and breeding without toxicity; look for restaurants labeled KRAV to confirm that you respect the environment.)
Taverna Averna, an Italian bistro approved by KRAV in a former auction house, grows its own vegetables on the roof. Upper House, a Michelin-starred establishment, is perched on the 25th floor of the Gothia Towers, a huge luxury hotel and convention center. Besides its magnificent view, the restaurant also maintains a roof garden and a beehive, with its honey used to sweeten the cocktails served at the bar. Another famous restaurant, Koka, plans its menu seasonally, working with local farmers and seafood producers to provide the freshest ingredients. A recent seven-course menu included, among other dishes, elderflower and leek scallops, followed by lingonberries with ice, mustard and caramel.
But can Gothenburg keep its high vision of sustainability, I wondered? The change was evident everywhere. As I headed for the harbor from the historic city center, past old buildings, open-air cafes and small specialty shops, the skyline suddenly changed. Glass and steel structures rose above the waterfront and construction cranes pierced the sky.
Next year will be the 400th anniversary of Gothenburg, and the city has been busy preparing – organizing workshops with young people, organizing conferences on sustainable urban design and consulting residents on sustainable development projects that improve the lives of inhabitants. They seem to be well prepared.
“This work started in 2009, with focus groups and dialogue with the people of Gothenburg,” said Eva Lehmann, public relations manager for Goteburg 039;Co.
One of the most exciting projects is Jubileumsparken, an urban park that takes place in the popular area of Frihamnen, near the outdoor pool and sauna. The objective is to make this district a green and dynamic part of the city center. Local residents have been busy designing new activities and projects here, including a “rainy” playground for children, built to accommodate frequent showers in the area. “This is a new approach to urban development, with people empowered to gradually take control of the area and take it over,” said Lehmann.
However, this construction boom could radically change the intimate atmosphere of the city, and perhaps even its ambition to create a greener city. RiverCity Gothenburg, a multi-million dollar redevelopment project including office towers, apartments and stores, is taking place along the waterfront. This massive construction is expected to house the city’s 250,000 new residents expected over the next few years. Next 15 years.
But Gothenburg also seems to have anticipated challenges to its sustainability goals. You only have to go through the city plan for the future – including efforts to combat the expected sea level rise over the next decade and prevent river flooding – to know that ‘they are working on it.
Comeback Cities is a BBC travel series that showcases capitals under the radar, defends urban outsiders and revel in the successes of cities that have changed their fortunes.
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