“Witness,” Peter Weir’s hymn to rural Pennsylvania, put Amish country on the map. But in the process, he almost killed him. Since the 1985 film, Lancaster County’s population has increased by around 40% to around half a million. In the decades that followed, it struggled to protect its Amish and Mennonite residents and its painfully beautiful landscape. Surrounded today by its own mini-Beltway, the town that welcomed German dissidents in 1729, served briefly as the US capital and put shoofly pie on the map is a bustling little town. Yes, take a stroll through the well-maintained city center. Do your shopping at the Central Market, a tradition since 1730; this is where the “fresh from the farm” cliché might come from. Visit the Fulton Theatre, an 1852 gem that has returned from the start of the pandemic with a new live season. But for a taste of Pennsylvania Dutch tranquility, head north this spring.