Of course, some things cannot be changed with a simple change of philosophy. Riccio’s disease left her with a weakened immune system, which for a coronavirus is like oxygen from a fire. The chef went underground, forced to work graveyard shifts at Pow Pow, the couple’s first restaurant on H Street NE; or at home in a test kitchen built by Sharkey; or the new Plant Food Lab on M Street NW, which the pair opened amid the pandemic. The lab is also temporarily home to Riccio and Sharkey’s latest project, the Kosher-certified Bubbie’s Plant Burgers and Fizz, which will function as a take-out before migrating to Adams Morgan next year, with its own dedicated space and expanded menu. . .