With his experience, Reavis is the perfect pitmaster to push the barbecue beyond its hidden impulses. As a native son of Emporia, Virginia, just 10 miles from the North Carolina border, Reavis has an easy affinity for pork. Yet his approach to preparing pork butts – the “money muscle” – borrows from ancient traditions of smoking. and modern chef techniques. After the pork soaks in wood smoke for 12 hours, Reavis pulls the meat up and hits it with a North Carolina sauce, a kaleidoscopic condiment that turns from sweet to sour to heat, over and over again. It will then vacuum seal the combination, allowing the vinegar, fat, and smoke to melt into a sort of pulled pork vinaigrette. It’s unforgettable.